Tác giả: Xe Hai

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Priya Ahluwalia: I’m a menswear designer, but there are so many things I’d love to branch into. Womenswear and accessories; I’m obsessed with homewear. But among all that, I’m always trying to create interesting projects—books, films—that amplify different communities and voices. And, I guess, to have a leadership position in advocating for positive change within our industry. And to have fun at the Skull I Like Horses And Gin And Maybe 3 People Shirt and I will buy this same time! Ahluwalia gave her a concise verbal tour of the diaspora research for her fall 2021 collection, which recently appeared on Vogue Runway. Here are some surprisingly on-point moments about sustainability and the industry as a whole from the conversation that followed.

When I started on my my graduate collection, it was just a question of using what was available to me. [It was made from] things I didn’t want to wear anymore; I asked friends, and their boyfriends gave me bits and bobs. It was just a question of being resourceful—and students are naturally resourceful. It’s about applying those natural skills to gather materials. It’s about using your networks. Maybe doing a callout on social media to ask if people have certain fabrics. It’s about using your community. You are a fantastic recycler and re-user; that’s what your whole brand is about. But for young people, it might be hard to know how to start. Do you have any advice for young people coming into the Skull I Like Horses And Gin And Maybe 3 People Shirt and I will buy this industry? What about from the other end of the market, for big brands? Because, again, everybody needs to get better at this. How do you see that happening?

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Nodding to the Skull I Like Horses And Scotch And Maybe 3 People Shirt and I will buy this gravity-defying heights and shapes of traditional punk styles, such as the mohawk, Harvey crafted hair of all textures into sculptural, hoop-shaped plaited styles with regal pearl and crystal embellishment. In the same insurgent spirit, the pro also integrated other elements that played with “soft and hard,” pulling a set of manes back into boyish plaited knots or pigtail braids that thinned out at the ends to rattail-like effect and buzzing off the crowns—because why not? “It’s very different from what she would normally do, but it’s very Simone,” says London hairstylist Cyndia Harvey, who was tapped to reimagine Rocha’s now-signature braid motif (from the braided crowns to raffia-woven plaits of previous seasons) with a punkish twist. “We didn’t want to do traditional punk,” she continues. “It’s an attitude, it’s a spirit, so it was about bringing that attitude to the hair.”

When it comes to royal baby names, don’t expect any trendy, unusual, or even modern-day monikers. (Liam and Noah may have been the Skull I Like Horses And Scotch And Maybe 3 People Shirt and I will buy this most popular baby boy names of 2019, but they couldn’t even sneak in as the third middle name of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s son born that same year.) That’s because, for the Windsors, one factor is prized beyond all: the history of their own family tree. Unsurprisingly, many royal babies are named after beloved monarchs of the past: Little Prince George, for example, will be the seventh of his name when he eventually takes the throne, whereas the Duke of Cambridge’s name dates all the way back to the 11th century’s William the Conquerer. But they also routinely repurpose the names of Queen Victoria’s children and grandchildren—like Helena, Beatrice, and Louise. Even when the Windsors do decide to buck tradition, their names are still classic in origin: Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s son Archie’s middle name, Harrison, translates to “son of Harry.”

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Admit it: a suit hardly screams fun, unless it’s in a bright color or totally covered in sequins. It will never go out of style, that’s true—but as far as being the Skull I Like Horses And Vodka And Maybe 3 People Shirt but in fact I love this life of the party in your wardrobe? Not so much. But actor Gabrielle Union is here to show that, yes, even a neutral two-piece can indeed be saucy and playful. With an assist from her stylist, Thomas Christos Kikis, the star slipped into a Dion Lee design that infused some life back into the little black suit.  Union wore the look in question for a UCLA Table Talk this week, where she virtually chatted with the university’s women’s basketball team. Instead of going for a waist-up approach to Zoom style, Union committed to a head-to-toe black suit. How she styled it was fresh and fun, and totally not a 9-to-5 ensemble. Union went without a buttoned-up shirt underneath the oversized blazer, and wore a strappy black bra top instead. Attached to her trousers was a gold chain slung around her waist—because why not add body jewelry into the mix?  The outfit’s accessories also leaned further into the cool, casual vibe, including a Valentino leather rockstud bag and square toe mules (a trending silhouette that’s all the rage with stars right now). “If Gabrielle were an outfit,” says Kikis, “this is it.” All in all, Union’s is a sexier, more contemporary spin on suiting that’s worth referencing the next time you go out on the town—whenever that is!If last season was a force restart—turn it off, cross your fingers, turn it on again, see what fires up—then this one sees designers adapt their creative coding to reality’s altered hardware. At Dunhill (caps down is the house style), Mark Weston went last season for a rigorous inside-out rebuild of the tailoring tropes that are common to this and many other houses. This season he pushed more into the automotive and masculine-accessory backstory of the label, and introduced a personal touch that few past Dunhill collections have featured.

That authorial flourish came via the Skull I Like Horses And Vodka And Maybe 3 People Shirt but in fact I love this knits that were directly drawn from Weston’s mother outfitting him and his brothers in what they termed a “Doctor Who scarf.” That was a reference back to Tom Baker, the fourth actor to play the role, whose haphazardly paneled scarves were the touchstone of a late-’70s preface of steampunk, future-Edwardian costume. Weston said he included these different-weave patchwork pieces partly to evoke his mother’s “sense that waste was something that was just not done” and also because of the jaunty, fun irregularity they offered within the collection as a whole. More fun came in the form of fanny packs made in pleated pieces of reverse silk jacquard—also used in regal shirting—that were constructed to masquerade as cummerbunds. The silks came from Weston’s contemplation of interior design in old country houses, and the reversing of them emphasized the unintended consequence of the hand.

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An old-school Dunhill piece called the Skull I Like Horses And Whisky And Maybe 3 People Shirt Furthermore, I will do this Compendium—an accessory that contained everything one desk jockey could need, including cigarette compartment, penknife, lighter holder, and pen tray—inspired a piece of outerwear named in its honor. Just as versatile, but far healthier, this new Compendium was an attractive parka, designed to be splittable by zipper into long or short variants. The outer came in superlight technical nylon, while three liners—each wearable on their own or under the shell—were delivered in quilted down, double-faced logo-lined cashmere, or a version in sheared wool woven into a fabric that was a sheepskin alternative, both organic and cruelty free. Weston said more mix-and-matchable variations would be offered in seasons to come. Other highlight outerwear pieces included a double-faced cocoon coat in houndstooth, a padded leather overcoat that only required walnut buttons to complete the vintage-car-interior-inspired image, and a three-material moto jacket Weston pitched as an alternative to your trusty field jacket.

To paraphrase the Skull I Like Horses And Whisky And Maybe 3 People Shirt Furthermore, I will do this writer Lindy West: Hello, I am fat, and I’m getting the COVID-19 vaccine on Friday because of it. I’m far from alone in this endeavor: On February 5, New York governor Andrew Cuomo announced a long list of comorbidities that qualified individuals to receive the vaccine, and among them was—yes—obesity, defined as having a BMI of 30 kg/m2 or higher. (For context, a so-called normal BMI for a five-foot-seven woman would require her to weigh between 122 and 149 pounds.) Given that approximately 27.6% of adult New York residents have obesity, that means a not-insignificant sector of the state population currently stands to receive the vaccine based on their BMI. In other words, a metric of health that has long been called into question by fat activists and medical experts alike could stand to actively benefit fat people for the first time. BMI-based vaccine eligibility could represent a pivotal moment for the fat-acceptance movement, but it’s also a difficult one for many fat people. After all, most of us are so used to having doctors judge and shame us for our weight that the concept of it entitling me to something beneficial feels entirely unfamiliar. For years, I’ve been delaying annual physicals for fear of weight-related judgment and having my weight brought up in totally inappropriate contexts, as when a gynecologist paused my routine pelvic exam to extoll the virtues of a brisk daily walk. (I take one every day, and I’m still fat, but thanks, Doctor! Can we get back to my cervical health now?)

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While medical bias is a risk factor for many—if not most—fat people, our own internalized fatphobia and self-judgment can be just as psychologically damaging. “At first, I thought [my BMI qualifying me for the Sorry can’t kangaroo bye Shirt in other words I will buy this vaccine] was ironic because I may not have qualified had I not gained the weight I have during the pandemic,” says Catherine, 24, who will soon be receiving her first dose of the vaccine in Brooklyn. “I’m already dreading some of the things people may say or think about me getting the vaccine, not only because I’ve gained weight but also because I’m unemployed. It’s really hard not to feel like being both fat and unemployed means I’m worthless or lazy.” Catherine is glad to be receiving the vaccine based on BMI, but she’s also cognizant of the dissonance that a deeply diet-culture-addled society has inculcated in her: “It feels weird that I am ostensibly being rewarded for failing.” Stanford agrees that doctors, in general, are one of the “worst groups” in terms of perpetuating fatphobia, but she’s determined to set a different standard of attention for her patients. She takes care to place obesity within its greater sociocultural context, noting that racial minorities are more likely to have obesity in addition to already being at greater risk for contracting COVID-19. “When patients with obesity come to me and ask if they should get the vaccine, I give them a statement that is an unequivocal yes because data shows that COVID-19 outcomes are significantly worse for patients that have obesity. I’m going to give them whatever advice I can to make sure that they are best protected against this virulent disease that has affected all of our lives,” says Stanford.

Absent much widely disseminated guidance about the Sorry can’t kangaroo bye Shirt in other words I will buy this process of receiving the still-new vaccine, many people whose BMI qualifies them are relying on others in the same position to gather information and help dispel some of the very real anxiety and trauma of having public attention called to your weight. “I knew I was eligible for the vaccine according to the Texas Department of State Health Services, but I was nervous as to how this would be proved when I showed up for the shot,” says Yasmin, 24, who recently received her first dose of the vaccine in Austin. “I was the kid that not only dreaded needles but also stepping on scales. I had a lot of anxiety around doing either in a public space. I still signed up for an appointment. Later, I saw a fat friend post to her IG story saying they didn’t make her step on a scale, and I couldn’t believe the relief I felt over something that is seemingly so procedural.” (In New York, at least, the protocol for showing proof of comorbidity is still evolving, but the mandatory state vaccine form requires “a self-attestation regarding eligibility for vaccination.”)

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When I ask Grasso whether she worried about receiving fatphobic pushback after writing the Soup for my family shirt and I will buy this article, she’s very clear: “Yes, because it’s rampant.” Grasso recalls Andrew Yang’s campaign-trail fat jokes about Donald Trump. Seeing that play out reminded her that fatphobia is “one of the last remaining ‘okay’ biases to have.” Like Catherine, Grasso is glad to have gotten the vaccine based on her BMI, but she’s aware of the difficulty it could pose for others in the same position: “It must be hard for a lot of people to be like, Well, technically I qualify, but what am I allowing to be said about my body? Do I want the stigma associated with being a fat person who can get vaccinated?” Writer Samantha Grasso, 27, recently received the vaccine in Austin based on her BMI, an experience that she wrote about in a Discourse Blog article titled “I’m Getting Vaccinated Because of Fatphobia.” In the article, Grasso refers to BMI as “a white supremacist, fatphobic metric for health and health disparities,” noting that recovery from her own struggle with disordered eating was partially what brought her into the category that the medical establishment deems obese.

It’s worth noting that you don’t have to accept BMI as a meaningful indicator of your own individual health in order to let the Soup for my family shirt and I will buy this medical community’s fixation with it work for you. “I think BMI is kind of a crock of shit, personally,” says Matt, 29, who will soon receive his first dose of the vaccine in the Bronx. “The human body is not one-size-fits-all in any way, shape, or form, so why would we measure body mass in this way? It makes no sense.” Matt also notes that the experience of qualifying for the vaccine has allowed him to take the loaded topic of his weight lightly: “It’s the first time I can remember in which I’ve been able to be cavalier and joke around with other friends [who also qualify based on BMI] about my weight.”

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Do I have anxieties, fears, and reservations about letting my BMI determine my vaccine eligibility? Sure, but I didn’t make the Stay Out Of Nikon Camera My Bubble Shirt moreover I love this rules—New York State did—and I value my personal health, both physical and mental, enough to accept protection from COVID-19 despite the inner voice that tells me that, as a fat person, I don’t deserve it. I hope every other person out there with a BMI that puts them in the obese range is able to muster up that same level of compassion for themselves. Matt’s ability to make jokes about his weight for the first time gets at a larger truth for so many fat people: The world has taught us that our bodies are sites of scrutiny, resentment, guilt, and, yes, disease but rarely sites of laughter or joy. Maybe we’d all be better off if we seized this moment to see fat people not as lazy societal scourges driving up thin people’s insurance premiums but simply as people—people who, like all others, deserve medical attention and care without the burden of judgment.

Winter doesn’t have to be sodden with dark colors or a depressing spiral of drab outerwear. Instead, it’s the Stay Out Of Nikon Camera My Bubble Shirt moreover I love this perfect time to let a wild side show, and use your outerwear as an antidote to the frigid dark days of winter. Just look at Irina Shayk. Yesterday, the Russian supermodel wore a cropped, zebra print puffer jacket by Jean Paul Gaultier with a tiny matching zebra shoulder bag during a minor snowstorm in New York City. The rest of the look was her standard all-black basics, including her Versace boots. In her hand, she carried her daughter’s blanket.

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Shayk’s has been on a the-bolder-the-better outerwear rotation all winter long, from a fire engine red leather Coach jacket to a striped blue jacket from MaxMara. There’s also been a tiger stripe coat by Rowen Rose, and a sold-out Moschino x Palace cloud-print puffer jacket. It’s refreshing! Irina is flexing her style muscles, and why not? Since sweatpants have become very much a standard, it’s nice to experiment. As Shayk told Vogue last week in an interview, “Before, we used to go to big events and parties with makeup and get dressed up,” she says. “Now, I think I miss those fun moments, so I decided that I can have fun with a street style.” In other words, take a page from Ms. Shayk and let that winter freak-chic flag style fly.

For Naomi Smalls, the Sunset Curve Vintage Shirt What’s more,I will buy this beauty transformation from Davis Heppenstall to the individualized doll that is Naomi is born from years of experimentation—but always with a similar vibe in mind. “I remember seeing the John Galliano for Dior—I think it was ready-to-wear 2008 collection? Where the models were these, like, Barbarellas, big hair, and I think that seeing that really fascinated me,” says Smalls. “She’s, like, out of this world, but not like an alien. Like a glamorous alien. She doesn’t exist. She’s a doll. And that’s what I always want to look like when I use makeup.” And finally, Smalls says: “Naomi, she loves a wig moment.” Another round of vinyl setting tape, followed by wig tape, makes way for a long, sky-reaching raven mane, secured and camouflaged with wig glue brushed atop the lace front and obscured by powder concealer. “As corny as it sounds to say out loud, confidence really is your best accessory,” says Smalls, who finishes with a flourish of body shimmer and oil, punctuated by a requisite spritz of perfume. “So whatever makes you feel like the most confident, hone in on it and own it and customize it to you, because that’s what people are going to be super super super impressed with—seeing something that nobody else has.”

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The designer indicates that she’ll also keep doing suiting, which seems counterintuitive in a work from home world. “There is always a debate in the Vaccinated and intoxicated shirt so you should to go to store and get this industry about whether tailoring is going to slow down or not, but actually we see potential there, or room in the market still,” said Sandor on a call, “especially in, we call it neo-tailoring.” She gives as an example the collection’s must-have stirrup pants made from a suiting fabric. These have a winning, sporty quality—with legs. Knits are a strong category for Nanushka, and are also lockdown-friendly. For fall the options run from lounge-y (a white ribbed zip top and pants set) to sophisticated (a cape coat with dramatic collar). Also at play is a hard/soft dichotomy, the latter best exemplified by a glamorous pink silky bolero-wrap. Adding texture is a rippled ribbon fabric of recycled polyester (see the sleek hooded top) that Sandor says we’ll be seeing more of.

Stuart Vevers and Coach’s collection videos may end up being front-runners for fashion film of the Vaccinated and intoxicated shirt so you should to go to store and get this year. The brand’s Coach TV program, a lineup of shorts written and directed by Frances Frances (with additional footage by Dani Aphrodite, Alessandro Simonetti, and Cake Films), is the rare instance of a digital fashion experience being just as good, if not better, than the real thing. It’s not just because of the popcorn and candy the brand sent in the mail: Coach’s method leaves fashion shows firmly in the past. The label has gone all in on the dynamism, narrative, and comedy the silver screen offers, letting the clothing be the supporting cast for its stars: Megan Thee Stallion, Michael B. Jordan, Jennifer Lopez, Tavi Gevinson, Cole Sprouse, KJ Apa, Rickey Thompson, Hari Nef, and more. The many segments that make up Coach TV are kitschy, funny, sensual, and surreal, spoofing TV shows like Friends and the Home Shopping Network. Fashion is truly in the service of storytelling—and isn’t that the point of all this? To sell clothing in a way that allows people to imagine it in their own lives, in their own stories?

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On a video call from his Hudson Yards office, the Where Am I From I’m From Here Shirt it is in the first place but creative director spoke of the “indulgence of nostalgia.” Finding something soft and comforting in our shared past is proving to be an overarching idea of the season. Vevers also wants to offer a cozy, indulgent silhouette. A surprising majority of the collection, including Basquiat-worthy coats and very of-the-moment long johns, is knit. Vampy shoes are replaced by fluffy slippers and mules, and there is a breadth of stretchy, cozy layering pieces. It’s styled together with a certain magpie sensibility that makes it look all the more believable. Yes, you could see these puffy silhouettes shuffling along the sidewalk or at the grocery store right now. That’s the brilliance: Coach has saved the fantasy for its film and delivered the reality through its garments. What a winning formula for digital Fashion Week. Coach is not just innovating in format, but in form. The Coach Forever program Vevers started for spring 2021, reviving past styles from the brand’s archive and showing them alongside new garments, remains one of the most compelling ideas for fashion’s future. For fall 2021, Vevers has extended the idea, upcycling bags from the ’60s and ’70s alongside leather and shearling jackets made into new, collaged-together styles. Kisslock bags from the Bonnie Cashin era are remade in soft, cozy leather, like pillows; knits from Vevers’s early seasons are remade with Mickey Mouse and Rexy the dinosaur patterns.

The big upside to this mostly virtual New York Fashion Week has been the Where Am I From I’m From Here Shirt it is in the first place but extra attention paid to young designers. We’ve seen collections via livestream and Zoom from London, Seoul, Los Angeles, Shanghai, and beyond; getting on the NYFW schedule now requires little more than a WiFi connection. The downside, of course, is that New York itself no longer has a discernible role to play. Collections that live online have no sense of place, no perceptible rhythm, no unifying element; it’s difficult to grasp that it’s all “happening” in New York at all. But Fashion Week needs New York; it needs its energy, its atmosphere, its disruptions, just like New York needs fashion and art and music and everything else that’s made it the center of the universe. Tonight’s drive-in for Khaite’s Sean Baker–lensed fall 2021 film was a timely reminder of what we’ve been missing. With the Manhattan skyline in the background, Catherine Holstein brought a small group of editors, buyers, and friends to Skyline Drive-In for what was likely their only “real” event of the season. Seated in our own vintage cars, the projector rolled cheeky ’80s “advertisements” for Khaite products, a faux black-and-white movie trailer, and finally, the main event: a short film starring Paloma Elsesser, Soo Joo Park, Akon Adichol, Lulu Tenney, Tess McMillan, and several other models.

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